Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart – AU, US & European Sizes
Use this sewing machine needle size chart to compare Australian, European and US needle sizes and choose a suitable needle for cotton, denim, stretch fabric, silk and other common materials. Needle size describes thickness; needle type describes the point and construction designed for a particular fabric.
In Australia, household sewing machine needles commonly use the European metric (NM) numbering system, such as 80/12. The first number (80) is the metric size and the second (12) is the corresponding US size. For everyday medium-weight woven cotton, a Universal 80/12 is a common starting point. Always check your machine manual and test on fabric scraps.
Go to size conversion chart | Choose by fabric | FAQs
Sewing Machine Needle Size Conversion Chart
Australian shops commonly show the European (NM) and US numbers together. A larger number means a thicker needle, not a longer one.
| AU / Europe (NM) | US | Common package label | General fabric weight |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60 | 8 | 60/8 | Very fine |
| 65 | 9 | 65/9 | Very fine |
| 70 | 10 | 70/10 | Lightweight |
| 75 | 11 | 75/11 | Lightweight |
| 80 | 12 | 80/12 | Medium-weight |
| 90 | 14 | 90/14 | Medium to heavier |
| 100 | 16 | 100/16 | Heavyweight |
| 110 | 18 | 110/18 | Very heavy |
| 120 | 19 | 120/19 | Specialised heavy sewing |
| 130 | 21 | 130/21 | Specialised heavy sewing |
Note: Not every needle type is sold in every size. Very large needles may not be suitable for your domestic machine. The size chart converts the numeric labels only; it does not establish machine compatibility.
Which Sewing Machine Needle Should I Use for Each Fabric?
Start with the fabric construction, then choose a suitable thickness for its weight and your thread. These examples are starting points, not universal rules.
| Fabric / project | Needle type | Common starting size |
|---|---|---|
| Woven cotton, poplin | Universal | 70/10–90/14 |
| Fine silk, chiffon | Microtex (sharp) | 60/8–70/10 |
| Jersey or ordinary knitted cotton | Jersey / ballpoint | 70/10–90/14 |
| Lycra and highly elastic knits | Stretch | 75/11–90/14 |
| Denim and canvas | Jeans / denim | 90/14–110/18 |
| Quilting and layered patchwork | Quilting | 75/11 or 90/14 |
| Leather (where machine permits) | Leather | 90/14–110/18 |
Important: Don't use a leather cutting-point needle on regular woven or knitted fabric. For coated or synthetic materials, a Microtex needle may be more suitable; always test first.
What Do Sewing Needle Numbers Mean?
The NM (metric) number describes the needle blade diameter in hundredths of a millimetre. An NM 80 needle is approximately 0.80 mm in diameter at the specified measuring point; an NM 100 needle is approximately 1.00 mm. The US number is an alternative size label, not a measurement in millimetres.
A label such as 90/14 therefore means metric size 90 and US size 14. Australian sewing suppliers often use this paired labelling rather than a separate Australian numbering system.
Needle Types Explained
- Universal: an all-purpose option for many everyday woven fabrics.
- Jersey / ballpoint: a rounded point helps move between knitted loops.
- Stretch: designed to reduce skipped stitches in elastic fabrics.
- Jeans / denim: reinforced construction for sturdy fabrics and thick seams.
- Microtex / sharp: a slender, sharp point for fine or densely woven materials and precise stitching.
- Quilting: designed for sewing through layered quilt materials.
- Leather: a cutting point for suitable leather projects, subject to machine specifications.
How to Choose and Replace a Needle
- Confirm compatibility: check your machine manual for its needle system. Many domestic machines use 130/705 H (HAx1 / 15x1), but not all machines do.
- Identify the fabric: woven, knit, stretchy, denim, delicate or specialist material.
- Match the thickness: generally start with finer needles for fine fabric and thicker needles for heavy fabric.
- Check the thread: a thicker thread may need a needle with an appropriate eye.
- Test on an offcut: sew through the same number of layers you expect in the project.
- Replace when needed: change bent, blunt or damaged needles promptly, and before a new project if stitch quality has deteriorated.
Safety: Switch off or unplug the machine before changing needles, follow the manufacturer's fitting instructions and never force a needle through material the machine is not designed to sew.
Troubleshooting Needle Problems
- Skipped stitches: try a fabric-appropriate needle (particularly stretch for elastic knits), check insertion and rethread the machine.
- Thread shredding: check the needle eye, needle condition, thread quality and tension.
- Fabric puckering: try a finer needle, appropriate thread and adjusted tension or stitch length.
- Breaking needles: stop sewing, inspect the needle and presser-foot setup, and avoid pulling the fabric. Confirm your machine supports the fabric thickness.
Sewing Machine Needle Size FAQs
What size sewing machine needle is most common? An 80/12 Universal needle is a common starting choice for medium-weight woven fabrics. There is no single ideal size for all projects.
Is Australian sewing needle sizing the same as European sizing? Australian retail labels commonly use European metric sizes (NM), often paired with the US equivalent, such as 80/12.
What does 90/14 mean? It refers to the same needle thickness in two numbering systems: metric 90 and US 14.
What needle should I use for denim? A Jeans/Denim needle, often 90/14 to 110/18 depending on denim weight, layers and machine capability.
Can I use a Universal needle on stretch fabric? Sometimes, but a Stretch or Jersey needle is often more suitable, particularly if the machine skips stitches.
Do all needles fit all sewing machines? No. Needle systems, shanks and machine specifications vary. Check the machine manual before purchasing or fitting a needle.
Related Fosmore Guides
Explore more practical reference charts on Fosmore:
- Size Charts Hub
- Crochet Hook Size Conversion Chart
- Knitting Needle Size Conversion Chart
- Yarn Weight Conversion Chart
Reference and Disclaimer
This is a general educational guide. Needle availability, sizes, fabrics and machine compatibility vary by manufacturer. Always consult your sewing machine manual, check the needle manufacturer's recommendations and test on spare fabric. This guide does not replace product safety or operating instructions.